Stepping into the grand lobby of the Sofitel Wentworth Sydney, a historic landmark in the heart of the CBD, you might not immediately expect to find a slice of laneway charm. Yet, tucked away, nestled within its courtyard space on the ground floor, lies Tilda Sydney – a restaurant promising a relaxed yet sophisticated dining experience. It felt like discovering a hidden gem, a warm, inviting space contrasting delightfully with the hotel’s established elegance.
The decor leans into this concept beautifully. Think of intimate corners, warm lighting casting a soft glow, and textures that feel both contemporary and comfortable. It successfully evokes that feeling of a cosy neighbourhood favourite, a place designed for lingering conversations and shared plates. The ambiance is buzzy but not overwhelming, striking a nice balance.
Our evening began with anticipation at our 6:00 pm reservation. Settling in, we were keen to start with drinks. However, the rhythm of the evening took on a more leisurely pace than expected. Catching a waiter’s eye for a drinks menu required a bit of patience, and a further wait ensued before it arrived. Sensing the unhurried tempo, we decided to streamline things when our order was finally taken, requesting our cocktails, a shared entree, main course, and a bottle of wine all at once.
Despite the somewhat slow start on the service front, the journey itself quickly hit its stride. We began with Espresso Martinis ($25 each) – a classic choice, well-executed and a welcome kickstart to the meal.
For entrees, we opted for sharing, starting with the Chilled Scallop ($12 each). These were delicate jewels, glistening with lemon myrtle, tamarind, and coconut – a bright, zesty, and refreshing opening. Following this was the Wagyu Beef Tartare ($32). Rich, unctuous beef paired beautifully with the deep savouriness of black garlic and the cooling touch of crème fraîche, all scooped up with perfectly crisp potato scallops. A definite highlight and a testament to the kitchen’s understanding of flavour and texture.
Choosing wine involved exploring a list that, while featuring interesting selections, leaned towards a higher price point. We settled on the Inkwell Primitivo Infidels 2021 ($80). A real positive note here was the gentleman who presented the wine. He took the time to share its story, highlights, and tasting notes, adding a personal touch that elevated the experience. The wine itself was robust and enjoyable, pairing well with our chosen dishes.
Our shared main course was the Tagliatelle ($43), generously interwoven with sweet crab meat, tender zucchini ribbons, and brought to life with a vibrant combination of garlic, lemon, and a gentle hum of chilli. It was comforting yet refined, perfectly cooked pasta coated in a delicious sauce. Alongside, the Potato Gems ($14) weren’t just an afterthought; we couldn’t resist the crispy bites with a creamy aioli were utterly moreish and disappeared quickly.
Throughout the meal, the quality of the ingredients and the thoughtful composition of each dish shone through. The value for money, considering the calibre of the food and the generous sharing portions, felt very reasonable.
As the evening drew towards a close, procuring the bill mirrored the earlier service tempo, requiring two requests before we walked up to the maître d’ desk to ask for the bill. We finally wrapped up our dinner around 9:30 pm, making it a three-and-a-half-hour experience from start to finish. A notable and appreciated gesture was the waiver of the standard 7% discretionary gratuity, acknowledging perhaps the slower service moments we’d encountered.
Ultimately, Tilda Sydney presents a fascinating contrast. The kitchen delivers truly delicious, well-executed modern Australian fare with flair, offering excellent value in a charming, intimate setting. While the service on our first visit felt stretched and leisurely paced, the quality of the food and the knowledgeable wine service (when received) were undeniable bright spots. If you’re seeking fantastic food in a lovely atmosphere and have ample time to relax into the evening, Tilda is certainly worth exploring – just perhaps adjust your expectations for the speed of service. The flavours, however, are prompt and right on point.
Tilda Sydney
61-101 Phillip St, Sydney NSW 2000, Australia
T:+61 2 8530 0138 | Book Online
