Glass Brasserie has always been a place that feels like home to me. It’s where I used to spoil myself with solo dinners when I first moved to Sydney and where I’d bring friends visiting from overseas to experience something truly special.
Stepping into Glass Brasserie always feels like a special occasion, doesn’t it? It’s that mix of the soaring views, the buzz of conversation, and the feeling that you’re somewhere truly elegant. This time, though, there was a different kind of excitement in the air. Mauro Bortolato, a legend in his own right, greeted me with that familiar warm smile, twenty years he’s been here, can you believe it? And we were all here to celebrate Natalie Murphy taking the reins as Head Chef, a real homegrown talent who’s worked her way up from within these very walls.
(c) video by Glass Brasserie
It’s clear Natalie’s got a real passion for letting the food shine. You know, the kind of cooking where you can taste the quality of every ingredient. We started with some truly fantastic Pioik Bakery Sourdough and butter, simple, but so good, and then those fresh oysters, just the right briny kick. Oh, and the caviar? Served on these little savoury waffles? Absolutely divine. That Pommery Brut Apanage Champagne, to start, was just what you want with those little bites. It wasn’t overly dry, had a nice, clean finish, which meant it didn’t overpower the delicate flavours. It was celebratory, a real ‘let’s get this party started’ kind of drink.
The seafood courses were a highlight. The Mount Cook Atlantic Salmon Gravlax was silky and light, with just the right balance of dill, capers, crème fraîche, and a touch of pickled onion for sharpness. The Yamaba King Prawns, smoky from the charcoal and coated in harissa butter with bursts of finger lime, were a standout. Mauro’s choice of the 2022 Naturaliste Artus Chardonnay was spot on. Now, I’m not always a Chardonnay person, but this one was different. It had this lovely brightness, almost a citrusy zing, but with enough depth to stand up to the richness of the prawns. Mauro mentioned it had spent some time on lees, which gave it a subtle creaminess.
When it came to the mains, the attention to detail was striking. The Borrowdale Pork Belly was sticky and tender, paired with a fresh green mango and cucumber salad that cut through its richness. The Gundagai Lamb Cutlets, seasoned with Baharat spice and paired with a pomegranate mint salsa, had a warmth and depth that was irresistible. A glass of 2022 La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Grenache Blend was a real crowd-pleaser. It’s a blend from the Rhone Valley, so you get those warm, ripe red fruit flavours, but it wasn’t overly heavy. It had a lovely, smooth texture, which meant it paired beautifully with both the pork and the lamb. It just felt… comfortable, like a good friend.
The scotch fillet? Oh my goodness. That was the star of the show. The O’Connor Slow-Roasted Scotch Fillet was the definition of indulgence, served with a deep Madeira jus. The sides were just…: crispy fries, earthy pine mushrooms sautéed with thyme and Parmigiano-Reggiano, and perfectly tender green beans with parsley butter and smoked almonds. The 2021 Tait Basket Press Shiraz, was the big, bold red you’d expect. It had those classic Shiraz notes of dark berries and a hint of spice, but it wasn’t overpowering. Mauro explained that the ‘basket press’ method gives the wine a really intense colour and flavour, which was exactly what we needed to cut through the richness of the beef. It was a really satisfying pairing.
Dessert was both a treat and a revelation. Valrhona Dark Chocolate Tartlets were served with pineapple, caramel, and coffee gelato, a delightful combination of bittersweet and creamy flavours. Mauro brought out a Bertani Recioto della Valpolicella. It’s a sweet Italian wine, almost like a dessert in itself. It had this incredible concentration of dried fruit flavours, like raisins and figs, and a hint of chocolate. It was rich and decadent, but not cloying.
The whole experience was just so… effortless. It’s not just about the food, though that was exceptional. It’s the atmosphere, the service, the feeling that you’re in good hands. It’s that blend of familiar warmth and fresh energy that really makes Glass Brasserie stand out. You can tell Chef Natalie’s bringing a new kind of energy to the place, while still honouring its legacy. If you’re looking for a special night out, you really can’t go wrong here. I’d definitely recommend booking a table. You can view the new menu here.
Glass Brasserie
Level 2, 488 George Street, Sydney NSW 2000, Australia
T: +61 2 9265 6068 | E: glass.sydney@hilton.com | Book Online
