There is a specific kind of magic that happens when you pair a sleek skyscraper hotel with a bottle of vintage sparkling and a lifelong friend. Located in the heart of the soaring 88 Walker tower, the Citadines Walker North Sydney is a masterclass in modern Australian hospitality. It offers a sanctuary above the bustling CBD with minimalist design and expansive windows that frame the city like a living gallery.
Our evening began at Bar Lettera, the hotel’s flagship dining destination. The space feels like a sophisticated apartment tucked into a glass tower, blending Italian warmth with Sydney’s high energy. At the helm is Head Chef Ryan Perry, known for his ability to take classic Italian techniques and infuse them with a modern, playful edge, focusing on premium Australian produce and bold, unexpected textures.
After checking into a room that felt remarkably spacious for a city stay, my friend and I headed down to celebrate a year of challenges and a new year of beginnings. We kicked things off with a glass of 2018 Gembrook Hill Blanc de Blancs. It was crisp and elegant, the liquid equivalent of a deep, relieved exhale. It paired perfectly the Salson’s black truffle squid ink salami was earthy and mysterious, while the Wagyu beef salami featured a peppery pastrami crust that left us reaching for just one more slice.
As the restaurant dimmed and the North Sydney lights began to twinkle, we moved on to the main event. The Risotto Al Salto was de-licious. It was crispy on the outside, hiding succulent bay bug and creamy stracciatella, all tied together by a punchy house XO sauce. For the meat and potatoes soul, the Riverine grass fed rump was buttery and perfectly charred, served with the kind of golden chips that demand to be eaten with your hands.
The wine of the night was the 2019 Podere Le Ripi Amore e Follia. Its name translates to Love and Madness, which felt fitting as we lost track of time laughing about the year behind us. It was bold, structured, and beautifully Tuscan.
We transitioned into the sweeter side of the menu with the 2023 La Colombera Derthona, a textured white with notes of peach and honey. It was the perfect partner for the Pistachio and Passionfruit Gelato and the clever Milo Tiramisu, which Chef Perry has added with Mr Black coffee liqueur for a nostalgic yet adult finish.
By the time we reached the artisanal cheese plate paired with the vibrant 2023 De Fermo L.A. Montepulciano, the staff were beginning to stack chairs. We were officially the last ones to leave. If you are looking to toast to new beginnings, do it here. Just do not expect to want to leave early.
Bar Lettera
Citadines Walker North Sydney
Level 5, 88 Walker St, North Sydney NSW 2060
T: +61 2 9128 8088 | E: barlettera@the-ascott.com | Book Online
