Stepping off the bustling Sydney streets and into Felix French Bistro & Brasserie is an instant transport to a little slice of Paris. Tucked away in Ash Street, this Merivale establishment effortlessly channels the charm and sophistication of a classic French bistro, all Parisian subway tiles, imported chandeliers, and waiters moving with a wonderful, unhurried precision in their signature aprons and bowties. The atmosphere alone sets the stage for a luxurious escape. This Saturday night, the room hummed with life: a beautiful mixture of international guests entertaining family, intimate date-night couples, and groups of four friends enjoying a celebratory evening of fine dining.
As a solo diner, I was made to feel not just welcome, but genuinely special, a testament to the kind and attentive service that defines Felix. My dining experience began with a delightful encounter with my French waiter, whose charming explanation of the menu set the perfect tone. The prelude, however, was the highlight of the evening: a deep dive into the wine list with the brilliant American sommelier.
She approached my table to discuss the special I’d ordered: the Chablis Week promotion. This annual celebration, running from Monday 29 September to Monday 13 October across Merivale venues, offers the quintessential pairing of fresh oysters with the celebrated white wine of Burgundy. The offer at Felix was a bottle of Famille Grossot Chablis and six Sydney Rock Oysters for $110. The sommelier was an absolute delight, taking the time to explain the nuances of this iconic French appellation. Chablis, she detailed, is the northernmost wine district of Burgundy, where the cool climate forces the Chardonnay grape to express itself with unparalleled purity and minerality, a stark contrast to the richer, oakier Chardonnay styles found elsewhere. The region’s unique Kimmeridgian clay soil, rich in fossilised oyster shells, is what imparts that signature “flinty” or “steely” note, and makes it such a natural, time-honoured pairing for seafood.
She then focused on the bottle before me: the Famille Grossot Chablis. This estate is renowned for its organic commitment and precision, crafting wines that brilliantly reflect the famous terroir. Tasting this Chablis was an exercise in crisp purity. On the nose, it offered a very fresh, clean profile with notes of citrus, green apple, and a distinct oyster-shell minerality. On the palate, it was beautifully taut and elegant, with a lively acidity that perfectly cut through the saline richness of the accompanying six Sydney Rock Oysters. The sommelier’s commentary, including the technical difference between Petit Chablis and Chablis (based primarily on soil and vineyard location), elevated a simple glass of wine into a moment of sophisticated appreciation.
For the main course, I chose the Snapper with wilted greens, lemon beurre blanc, chive, and salmon roe. It was a masterclass in French technique: the fish cooked to moist, flaky perfection, dressed in a bright, creamy beurre blanc that was beautifully enhanced by the burst of the salmon roe. Alongside it, the side of Dutch carrots with Ras el hanout and labneh was an unexpected star. The carrots, sweet and tender, offered an earthy spice from the Moroccan blend that was perfectly balanced by the cool, tangy labneh. My only note here is that this generous portion felt more like a serving for two, but that just meant there was more to savour.
To finish, I indulged in the classic Vanilla crème brûlée paired with a glass of the exquisite 2010 Chateau de Rayne Vigneau Sauternes. The dessert itself was rich, creamy, and deeply satisfying, a beautiful example of French patisserie. My one small disappointment was that the caramelised sugar topping, while beautiful, lacked the perfect, satisfying crunch that defines a truly great crème brûlée. However, the dessert wine was sensational. The Chateau de Rayne Vigneau is a Premier Grand Cru Classé from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux, famed for its luscious, complex sweet wines made from grapes affected by the noble rot (Botrytis cinerea). The 2010 vintage, highly acclaimed, poured a beautiful medium lemon-gold colour. The tasting notes were profound: generous layers of honeyed apricot, candied citrus peel, and spice cake, all balanced by a remarkable freshness and a long, mineral-tinged finish. It was the perfect, golden-hued conclusion to the meal.
From the moment I stepped into the vibrant, elegant room to the final drop of Sauternes, the combination of the sophisticated Parisian atmosphere, the charming and knowledgeable service, from my French waiter to the delightful American sommelier, and the precise, flavourful execution of the cuisine made this the best dining experience I’ve enjoyed in a very long time. Felix, and the wonderful Chablis Week promotion offered not just a meal but a captivating journey.
Felix
2 Ash Street, Sydney NSW 2000, Australia
T: +61 2 9114 7303 | Book Online
