A road trip to the nation’s capital always warrants a memorable meal, and my recent drive to Canberra culminated in a fantastic dinner at Azuma Den, the vibrant Korean-Japanese fusion restaurant nestled within the East Hotel. Accompanied by my dining partner, Jimmy Wong, we surrendered to the restaurant’s signature experience: the Fire Feast set menu.
Azuma Den is warm, layered, and sophisticated, successfully blending Japanese elegance with bold Korean elements. The entire concept revolves around the hibachi grill, positioning the raw power and flavour of fire-cooking at the heart of the experience. The cuisine is a considered dialogue between East Asian traditions: the simplicity and seasonal focus of Japan meets the robust flavours and fermentation techniques of Korea. It creates an exciting, flavour-forward style that is truly unique to the Canberra dining scene.
The Fire Feast is an impressive twelve-item tasting menu designed for sharing, offering a comprehensive tour of Azuma Den’s philosophy.
The Starters: Freshness and Fire-Kissed Bites
We began with a brilliant mix of delicate and smoky flavours. The Shishito Peppers, fire-flamed and served with soybean paste and seaweed, were smoky, lightly charred, and addictive, offering a pleasant pop of heat without being overwhelming. This was immediately followed by the elegant Salmon Sashimi, which was cured beautifully and elevated by the sharp citrus notes and delicate briny bursts of caviar.
The Middle Course: Texture and Bold Fusion
- Wagyu Beef Tartare Tacos: Arguably a highlight, these featured finely diced wagyu, beautifully seasoned like yukhoe, encased in a crisp, fried taco shell. The sweetness of the nashi pear and the refreshing cucumber cut through the richness of the beef, making for a perfect, textured bite.
- Fried Calamari: This was flawlessly executed. The calamari was tender inside and crispy outside, seasoned with a lively mix of Szechuan pepper that delivered a welcome aromatic tingle, balanced by a creamy yuzu mayo for dipping.
- Lobster + Prawn + Scallop Dumplings: Steamed and generously filled, these seafood dumplings were pure comfort. The chilli oil provided a subtle warmth, and the final flourish of salmon roe added a salty, textural pop that made each dumpling feel luxurious.
The Mains: Smoke and Spice
The meat courses were where the Korean influence truly shone through, demonstrating control over the grill:
- Jun’s Korean Fried Chicken: This was juicy, crunchy, and coated in a sticky, balanced sweet chilli garlic glaze. It was a crowdpleaser, sweet, savoury, and perfectly cooked.
- Korean Pork Ribs: Using premium Byron Bay Berkshire pork, these ribs were tender and rich. The deep red gochujang marinade offered a wonderful blend of fermented chilli heat and sweetness, which was satisfyingly complex.
To cleanse the palate and complete the main course, the accompanying Broccolini with sticky sesame and soy provided a simple, nutty counterpoint to the rich meats, served alongside perfectly Steamed Rice.
Huge praise is due to Azuma Den’s drinks menu. I tried both of their signature mocktails, and they were truly delicious, creative, beautifully presented, and made with the complexity and balance usually reserved for cocktails.
The Sikeumhan Plum (plum syrup, 0% mezcal, lime, and soda) was a sophisticated, smoky-sweet and tart number. The other, the Amai Apple (fresh red apple, honey, ginger, and soda), was bright, refreshing, and offered a pleasant warmth from the ginger, the perfect palate cleanser throughout the meal.
While the Fire Feast delivered exceptional highs, the experience unfortunately faltered at the finish line with the desserts.
The Coconut Meringue with yuzu miso caramel, custard, and mandarin was advertised as a playful fusion, but the texture was sadly off. Instead of a light, crisp bite, the meringue was very chewy, almost resembling dried-up marshmallow from a campfire, dense and sticky rather than ethereal.
Similarly, the AZD Brûlée (mandarin and ginger) lacked the quintessential feature of a good brûlée: a crisp, glazed sugar top. The texture was powdery and dry, with no satisfying crack when tapped. It was an unfortunate end to an otherwise magnificent meal.
Azuma Den at the East Hotel is a must-visit destination for anyone looking for sophisticated, fire-driven Asian fusion dining in Canberra. The Fire Feast is a generous and flavourful feast that showcases the best of both Korean and Japanese kitchens. While the desserts require attention, the strength of the savoury courses, the excellent service, and the standout non-alcoholic options make this restaurant a clear winner.
Azume Den
69 Canberra Ave, Kingston ACT 2604, Australia
T: 02 6178 0007 | E: eat@azumaden.com.au | Book Online
